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Natural materials used to
create and fix a yellow pigment. Clockwise from the right: mango
tree bark, turmeric, myrtle flowers and alum. Turmeric is the
primary dye, the other materials are required for the "mordanting"
which is the chemical process which bonds the dye into the structure
of the the fabric fibre. |
Tree bark from Gujerat used
to create the strong red "alizarin" or "madder" pigment which
characterises many of our traditional design block print fabrics |
Pounding Marigold petals
which act as a fixative for natural dyes. |
Blocks are carved by a particular
community who have develop special expertise. In partnership with
the block printers, their interpretation and re-creation of design
ideas is quite remarkable. |
Every block printer keeps hundreds
of blocks in storage on shelves like these. There is no apparent
numbering or filing system but this is not a haphazard jumble.
The blocks for any requested design can be found in a seconds. |
Printing resist for indigo
batik dying. The dark brown substance which this woman is applying
to the fabric is a mixture of gum and earths. It protects the
fabric from the indigo dye when it is placed in the indigo vat.
It also bleaches those undyed a sections of indigo fabrics a bright
white colour. |
Though resist printing is often
carried out seated, pigment printing is usually done standing
at long tables. The man above is applying the key pattern for
a block design in black. |
Not all designs include a black
key pattern, for example our Kandinspiration is a combined
batik and block print techinique. Batik method creates a frame
in indigo blue before further colours are applied with standard
block print method. |
The Indigo Vat. This is a
deep chamber more than 8ft deep. The vat is almost never emptied.
Instead the dye is maintained in the vat by adding precise amounts
of raw cane sugar, indigo and other substances. This knowledge
is at the heart of the indigo dying and a closely guarded secret.
This man is dipping fabric which has been patterned using the
tie-dye knot method - traditional Rajasthani fabric decoration.
The exact way in which fabric is handled in the vat is of critical
importance. Fabrics have to be carefully folded to ensure an even
distribution of dye. |
The dipped article is laid out
in the sun to dry before the ties are removed and the pattern
revealed. |
Both block printed and tie-dyed
fabric has to be washed repeatedly to get rid of any excess
dye. Rajasthan is one of India's most arid areas so at some times
of year this presents problems. This is why we encourage our consumers
to wash the fabrics in lukewarm, salted water. before use. |
Block printed running fabric
hanging up to dry. In fact many of our bedspreads are simply
lain flat on the ground. |
Old
iron - another key ingredient for black dye using the
traditional method |
Molasses
- key ingredient for black dye using the traditional method |
Notice: Both block
printed and tie-dyed fabric has to be washed repeatedly to get
rid of any excess dye. Rajasthan is one of India's most arid areas
so at some times of year this presents problems. This is why we
encourage our consumers to wash the fabrics in lukewarm, salted
water before use. The colours will not be effected. |